All that sizzles is not beef.
Consider the new Impossible Whopper introduced nationwide by Burger King on Aug. 8. The Whopper is built with a plant-based patty— a union of soy and potato proteins—from Impossible Foods. Sunflower and coconut oils, the fats in the patty,create that signature burger sizzle when the patty hits the grill.
In recent years, chain and independent restaurants have increasingly offered plant-based patties that mimic the flavor, texture and grilling ability of real beef in answer to consumer concerns about healthy eating and the environmental impact of meat production.
"Of all the products Burger King has launched in the past 10 years, I think this is the best launch,"said Sanjay Lillaney of Reno, franchisee of 23 Burger Kings (a 24th is being constructed) across Nevada and California.
I've tried plant-based burgers at other restaurants in Reno— including an outstanding rendition by chef Jakon Tolhurst of Zeppelin— but I wanted to see what a national chain like Burger King would make of the trend, taking it mainstream.
Tastes like beef
Cut to: the Kietzke Lane Burger King. The Impossible Whopper arrives in a wrapper of white and sea foam green. Pretty. The burger is dressed, per Whopper SOP, with ketchup, mayonnaise, lettuce, tomato, onions and pickles.
The burger isn't as juicy as a standard Whopper, but it sports the requisite grill marks and offers smoky roasty beef flavor. That flavor is created by heme, an iron-containing molecule found in plants and animals (click here for an excellent explanation of the chemistry of the Impossible patty).
Like the original Whopper, the fixings of the Impossible Whopper are a bit messy, adding to the authentic experience. Patty weights are similar — 4.4 ounces pre-cooked for the Whopper, 4 ounces for the Impossible— as are prices: about $5.49 for the beef, $6.49 for the beefless.
Gluten-free but not strictly vegetarian
The first version of the Impossible patty used wheat protein, so it wasn't gluten-free. Version 2.0 being deployed by Burger Kingis gluten-free, though the Impossible Whopper itself, with its sesame seed bun, isn't gluten-free, of course.
Nor will some folks consider it vegetarian. That's because the Impossible Whopper is cooked on the same grill as other meats at Burger King.
If you're that strict, "there is an option to be cooked in the microwave, so it would be completely vegetarian at that point," said Jaime Coble, district manager of Lillaney's Burger King franchise group.
The Impossible Whopper also can be ordered as a vegetarian protein bowl with chopped lettuce and other vegetables but no bun.
Burger King tested the Impossible Whopper in St. Louis this past April, with sales rising 28 percent in the market during the month, Restaurant Business online reported.
For this carnivore, the meatless Whopper isn't as satisfying as the beef version, but it's a solid performer nonetheless. And the patties are a damn sight better than the frozen veggie burgers we've had to endure all these years.
Those never quite work on the grill.
____________
You care about what you put in your mouth. So keep current on food and drink news through alerts, unlimited access to content and more with aReno Gazette Journal digital subscription.
Subscribe to The Reno Taste free newsletterright here.
Johnathan L. Wright is the food and drink editor of RGJ Media, part of the USA Today Network. Join @RGJTaste onTwitter,FacebookandInstagram.
